We left Trabadelo on the mountain road that was the towns main road. The road continued through several small towns.

One of the small towns, Ambasmestas, is where the Rio Balboa flows into the Rio Valcarce that we had been following and criss crossing for a large part of the day.

The road wound under huge motor ways that passed over valleys and entire towns. At Ruitelan a double motorway.

Near Las Herrerias we nearly missed the turnoff from the road. Two pilgrims disappeared around a bend in the road as we approached. There was a small yellow arrow on a post . It wasn’t the sign we had become accustomed to. We pause and did up our shoe laces. A pilgrim walked past and we asked him. He checked his GPS. Oh glad you told me he replied. This turnoff is the right way. A woman also uncertain approached. There had been a Camino sign and we had missed it. We all decided to go with the guy and his GPS. We made the right decision. From Las Herrerias if booked in advance a horse can be ridden over the steep rocky incline to O’Cebreiro.

Half an hour after leaving the peaceful village of Las Herrerias we turned to the left off the road down a steep path. This was the beginning of a gruelling two hour climb over and around rocks, stones, mud and horse poo to O’Cebreiro. Just before reaching the town we leave the region of Castilla and León and enter Galicia.

As Horseless Dave climbed steadily and slowly upwards he began thinking that a wise man would have begged, borrowed or stolen a horse for this part of the journey. As we entered O’Cebreiro Horseless Dave finally found not one but several horses but now having reached his destination it was too late for them to be of any use to him.

Just past the village wall of O’Cebreiro we come to one of the earliest surviving buildings on the Camino, the old church of Santa Maria Real which dates from the 9th century. Next to the church is a bust and many plaques of commendation and respect for Elias Valiña Sampedro. He was a parish priest and it was his idea to mark the Camino Francis with the yellow arrow that now along with the scallop shell as become a symbol of the Camino.

There was an icy wind and still quite early so we continued on down the mountain. The views were spectacular and at Alto San Rogue a larger than life statue of a medieval pilgrim bracing against the wind.

At Hospital de la Condesa we stopped for the night and that evening went to the only bar in town for a great pilgrims menu. During dinner a procession of cows walk past the door and down the road for milking.

Camponaraya where we stayed last night was far larger than I expected. Heading out in the early morning light was easy with the abundance of street lighting.

We passed Vinas Bierzo advertising wine tasting tours for pilgrims at €1.50. -I think at 7:30 we may have been a tad early. Just past the winery there is a water fountain and rest area. The modern water fountain has a foot button control for the water.

Walking out through a variety of vineyards. There were grafted vines, old vines, some being harvested and some using rocks.

Cacabelos a pretty town that was an important medieval pilgrim town and still is with several albergues and hostels. It has a museum of Roman artefacts found at a nearby Roman town.

We continue over the Rio Cua and past a huge ancient olive press on display along the road.

Coming into Pieros I looked for an old wooden cross that would reference me to the hills behind the cross but I didn’t find it. In the hills behind the cross was the City of Castrum Bergidum home to the Asturians. The city was later conquered and occupied by the Romans. This sign post is at Pieros.

The light on again off again rain that had been playing with us for most of the day began to get a bit heavier as we entered Villafranca del Bierzo. We weren’t staying here and in the rain we didn’t take the time to look around. In medieval times Villafranca was sometimes called the little Santiago. Pilgrims unable to continue their journey were able to receive absolution here, the same as they would in Santiago.

Pereje another old town. I always wonder what is in these abandoned homes. Usually nature has taken over again. Here I found old wagon wheels

But not all homes are abandoned.

Before arriving in Trabadelo we walked under huge overhead roads. Some went over valleys and towns.

We made it to Trabadelo and after booking our accommodation we went for a walk. At Casa Susi a bit of home.

The old church At Trabadelo dates from the 9th century. The hills above Trabadelo were once home to outlaws that prayed on the innocent pilgrims.

Hungry Dave decided he would like fish for dinner tonight. I read the menu. Do you want salmon, hake, tuna or trout. Doesn’t matter Hungry Dave replied as long as it’s a fillet.. The waitress didn’t speak English and we didn’t know the Spanish for fillet. We decided on the trout…maybe not the best fillet choice but it sure was nice.

We left Riego de Ambros in the dark with one head lamp between the two of us. It may not have been our wisest move. As soon as we left the town centre we were diverted onto a steep shale covered decline that really was only suitable for mountain goats, especially in the dark. As the sun slowly rose we felt a little safer and we were thankful that it was a dry morning.

The views from the goat track made it more than worthwhile and coming into Molinaseca, beautiful. The first church we encountered was the Sant Nuestra Senora de las Angustias. It has been given steel doors because of an age old tradition. Pilgrims and Galician harvesters on their way home from Castilla would take a splinter from the churches door and leave their sickles as a token to the virgin. And because of this there was a need to protect the temples doors.

We cross Rio Meruelo on the pilgrims bridge.

through to the old stone cross known as Saint Christ Cross on Calle Real -royal street- which is the most important street in Molinaseca.

As we walked down Calle Real a woman roasting peppers which is one of several traditions of the area.

The old Stone Cross at the end of Calle Real.

Leaving Molinaseca a monument with a difference.

Before arriving at Ponferrada a sign to a Roman Fountain. I took the detour and even though there was no sign to say it was the Fuente Romana, I think this must be it.

More beautiful towns and old buildings. Here a local stopped to talk to us. His English was as good as my Spanish. From what I understood he was inviting us to his Casa. He was a lovely man but we declined and walked on.

The yellow arrows through Ponferrada led us to what is known as the Castillo de los Templarios. A huge castle that we couldn’t resist visiting. It has a huge history. It began as a Templar Castle to help protect pilgrims on their journey to Santiago. Over the centuries there have been several significant modifications. Now there are huge restorations, necessary but not completely in keeping with the original castle. I just wish we had had more time to explore it fully.

After leaving suburbia our walking paths led us through abandoned buildings

and along roads some overgrown with blackberries. Thorny Dave suddenly lost his hat, he turned around to find it had been taken by a blackberry vine. As he tried to retrieve his hat he found that he couldn’t move backwards or forwards as his backpack had become entangled by another vine. Poor Thorny Dave had to be rescued.

This morning was our coldest morning but it was so worth it for the incredible sunrise. The most brilliant we have seen.

We arrived to Foncebadon through hills of wildflowers.

We walked into a cloud covered mountain at the Cruz de Ferro – the Iron Cross. We waited as a young man stood solemnly just meters from the cross. An older couple walked up and with great reverence they stood together before kneeling and placing their tribute at the base of the cross. The young man remained, motionless with head bowed. The woman next to us told us his story. He had lost both his parents and on his birthday his sister had died. His journey to the cross was an emotional release for him. The couple moved on and I walked up to the cross and placed my stone from home. I’m not too sure what I was asking. Was it to absolve me of my sins, to release me of all my cares and worries or was it to ask for a safe journey to Santiago. I’m not sure what my stone was meant to represent but I do know that walking back down on the mountain of stones I felt incredibly close to tears. The young man placed his tributes and walked down. Emotional Dave gave him a hug and he clung to Emotional Dave.

The Cruz de Ferro is said to represent the highest point on the Camino at 1504 meters above sea level. Approximately 6 kilometres further on Alto Altar at 1.515 meters is the highest point. From the Cruz de Ferro we have passed through Manjarin with it small lonely cemetery on the hill.

Manjarin a ghost town of tumble down stone houses. One establishment, a novelty humpy of chimes and flags is all that now remains in this community.

As we are about to begin our huge decent to El Acebo at Altar Altar we have reached the pinacle of 1,515 meters. I didn’t see a sign proclaiming that it was the Alto Altar. There may have been one, if so I missed it. We now begin a nice but difficult and cloud shrouded decent to El Acebo.

From the hilltop looking down on El Acebo’s black rooftops the town looked new. In town the black slate rooves covered houses both new and old.

In front of a church on the way out of town a monument to a German cyclist who died in an accident in 1987.

An hour after leaving Astorga we had another brilliant sunrise. The best part of needing to look behind to see the sunrise is that when the sun does rise it is at our back.

Maybe the sunrise was the reason this staff was left on a way marker. Propped there so the owner could capture a brilliant sunrise shot and then forgotten.

Santa Catalina de Somoza once a large town now reduced to a permanent population of 50. The village is typical for the area and has a real beauty with its many stone fences…

stone buildings in different styles from different eras..

and incredible views.

Before reaching El Ganso one of the more famous monuments on the way and the most elaborate. The wayside cross for Trudy Boukas. She was an avid volunteer along the Camino and her untimely demise has been commemorated.

Just as we were entering El Ganso the rain that had been promised began to fall lightly. We made for the Cowboy Bar and after a cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant we donned rain gear, took a deep breath and headed out.

Trendy Dave looked around to see that amidst the rainbow of coloured ponchos the man standing next to him was wearing exactly the same one. We’re making a fashion here the man told Trendy Dave.

A little off track between El Ganso and Rabanal del Camino are the remnants the Roman gold mine La Fucarona which is one of the oldest farms from the Roman era. The Romans extracted approximately 6 tons of gold a year from this mine. In pre Roman times the Castira peoples of the Maragata region also mined the area but removed only small quantities of gold. There is a delapidated rest area with an information board that gives general directions to the area of which water pools used in the extraction of the gold can still be seen.

The path to Rabanal del Camino was a small indicator of what lay ahead.

We passed fences of crosses and walked along roads. The rain gods were kind to us and the rain remained light as we enjoyed our walk to Rabanal del Camino.

Another beautiful old village that has been caring for pilgrims for many centuries. The Knights Templar are reputed to have been here since the 12th century and to have built the parish church of Santa Maria.

We ended our rainy day with a nice meal and complementary liquors made from the seeds and skins left over in the production of wine. So, so nice.

Today we only had the 4 K to Hospital de Orbigo that we didn’t do yesterday and then 16 K to Astorga. There was no rush to get going but by habit we were still out of the door by 7. The morning was very dark and with just the light from our head lamp we could see that the landscape was dramatically different. We took our time. We arrived at Puente de Orbigo and I so wished that I had made it here last night. The Puente de Órbigo a long 21 span 13th century bridge was what we now needed to cross to arrive in Hospital de Orbigo. The bridge looks far to big for the river but a dam had been built and now the river that had been so much wider was reduced to a two span flow.

The final spans of the bridge in Hospital de Orbigo go over a canal, the reflections vivid in the early morning light.

We stopped for a break in Villares de Órbigo. While ordering the cafe con leches blood began pouring from the war wound on Little Aussie Bleeder Dave’s hand. The barista grabbed a long length of toilet paper and shoved it into Little Aussie Bleeder Dave’s hands. Little Aussie Bleeder Dave returned to our terrace seats still bleeding as David with his two ladies Heidi and Kelly walked past. On one of our first days out we had met David. I had called out to David and instead of my David turning around a fit looking guy had turned..oops wrong David, but a cute one so no complaints there. David is walking with his partner Heidi and friend Kelly. After our first brief encounter we have bumped into them several beer times. We hadn’t seen them for a few days and we thought that they were well ahead of us so it was a pleasant surprise to see them again today.

Prettied streets with mud brick houses and extensive paving lead us out into the countryside.

The flat terrain didn’t last long.

Soon we were walking through hills and farmlands with small plots of wine grapes being harvested.

Our walk was interesting.

With the normal unusual

We walked hills, fields of stubble, through pine and oak groves and past a boot with a view of the plains.

Six Kilometres from Astorga a donativo oasis.

Coming into Astorga at San Justo de la Vega one of my favourite views. A cross with the village of San Justo de la Vega in the background and behind it Astorga.

As we enter the townscape of San Justo de la Vega this incredible statue. While the fountain’s waters run the statue also drinks from his flask.

Through maize fields, along old mud brick wall and over modern zig zag bridges we followed the arrows into Astorga.

The Astorga Cathedral…

Gaudi’s Episcopal Palace

And the streetscapes

Some simple but brilliant.

And the perfect way to end a perfect day.

We had a decision to make this morning. Would we take the main route to Hospital de Orbigo which ran mostly along a busy road or would we take the road less travelled through the countryside. We opted for country. The first half of the walk was nice and interesting.

We had wild grapes for breakfast

…and we hit the 300 kilometres mark to Santiago.

But they were the highlights of our day. The second a 10 k stretch was on a treeless country road.

And we didn’t make it to our destination of Hospital de Orbigo. After travelling further than our days plan we were still 4 k short of Orbigo and stopped for the night at Villavante..

Garbo Dave has left the Camino cleaner than when he arrived. To date he has picked up approximately two shopping bags of rubbish. Not really a lot of rubbish left behind considering the overall people traffic and nearly 500 kilometres that we have travelled. But it was today’s bit of rubbish that had Garbo Dave rethinking his quest for a cleaner Camino. Picking up what he thought was a plastic drinking pouch with a spout. He carried it for some distance until I took note of the writing and diagram on the packet – for when nature calls. Drop it Garbo Dave that’s one bit of garbage that can stay here, it’s a she pee.

The thunderstorms brought rain last night but is was gone before we left Villarente this morning. Once again the morning sky was dark and threatening and we kept looking skyward, waiting for the rain. It had been an easy 12 kilometre walk this morning and a few spots of rain fell as we entered León.

It was a nice walk through the newer part of town, it was interesting and well signed and we were not disappointed when we reached the old town. We arrived through the old city gate Puerta Moneda with a very extensive city wall that has seen several updates.

We spent a good couple of hours exploring León and it didn’t disappoint. The old city streets…

Gaudi’s neo-Gothic palace, Casa de Botines…

and of course, Leon Cathedral. It is having renovation work at present but it didn’t distract from its beauty.

We hadn’t made plans on where we were staying or what we were doing. We looked skyward again and feeling brave -or foolhardy- we decided to head out. In Plaza San Marcos a life size pilgrim sandals off has a rest under the cross.

Light spitty rain had us guessing again as to whether we would get wet but we held off putting on the waterproofing. We eventually stopped at La Virgen del Camino – dry. It has a modern church built in 1962. A modern church is a rarity on the Camino. The sculptures depict Mary and the Twelve Apostles. Outstanding.

We sat on the terrace of a bar and enjoyed a wine. Grandpa Dave decided his babysitting services was needed to keep the two 11 month olds at the next table entertained. They were certainly enjoying his attention but I don’t know if their carers were quite as amused. The two littlies had been sitting quietly and happily beneath the table until Grandpa Dave intervened. Now they were crawling under tables and not being the perfect angels there were before. Bad Grandpa Dave.

The path that our feet trod today was very similar to yesterday. A stoney, white, tree lined path that ran parallel to a small road. But what was around us was quite different.

We left this morning under the gaze of a cloud covered moon. Our light came from the head lamp we carried with us. Mice scurried around us, running for cover across our path and some, ignorant of the damage our heavy feet could cause remained nonchalantly eating their meal.

Hectares and hectares of maize under irrigation with the occasional crop of swede? After an hour and a half of walking I saw my first deer. But they’re were quick. They bounded away over the horizon.

At one of the wayside stops Patched Up Dave thought he had found the Camino Excalibur. If it was, alas it wasn’t for him or for me.

The turnoff to Villamarco was for us the half way mark on a 13 K long stretch to Reliegos. At the turnoff to Villamarco which was 2 K off the Camino path there was a wayside stop. The wayside stop had an incredibly beautiful sculpture garden of museum pieces that lead to the town. The town has no pilgrim amenities but the stop was historically fascinating.

By 9 o’clock Patched Up Dave thought he was walking into a thunderstorm. The sky still hadn’t cleared but the patches of blue sky mixed with the white clouds made for a beautiful sky. After 15 kilometres we arrived in Reliegos and to more hobbit houses.

I like to photograph the old ruins of a town. The now deserted homes that have been walked away from as people move to the cities for work. But that doesn’t really represent the towns we walk through. Here is a beautiful street in Religious.

In Mansilla de Las Mulas we slowly wandered the streets. We were still undecided as to whether we would stay here for the night or continue on. It was late in the morning but still an early day. There was a local market selling local produce and we wandered through.

And then we saw the Roman walls. Dating from the 12th century these are one of the best preserved walls in the province of Leon. They survive from the time when Fernando II repopulated the town. Battlements, fortified towers and one of the four gates made of limestone and rock can still be seen.

We eventuality decided to move on and crossed the Rio Esla for the 6 K walk to Villarente. We passed the ancient hill fortress where the indigenous Asturians met their demise at the hands of the Romans. Many artefacts from the Neolithic period have been recovered from this area.

We pass on a special made pilgrim bridge the huge bridge Puente Ingente which has a span of 20 arches. Before reaching Villarente a shaded rest area down by the river was once the site of a medieval pilgrim hospital which operated a donkey ambulance for sick pilgrims to León.

We left Sahagun in the half morning light over the Rio Cea via the Puente Canto with its five arches. The bridge was originally Roman but had been reconstructed in the 11th and 16th centuries. While crossing the bridge we met a Japanese man who was legally blind, travelling alone. Some people simply amaze me.

It wasn’t long after daylight today that Warrior Dave had an altercation with the road. After a short tussle Warrior Dave won. He walked away leaving the bloodied road lying there.

And it showed once again that the Camino is a caring community. Warrior Dave was helped in his words, by four young women. In my words by four women about my age. They offered support, prayer and bandages.

Today it’s a bit about me. Our short day yesterday enabled us to stay at El Burgo Ranero tonight and after Warrior Dave’s altercation another short day was a good thing.

In August last year I spent 2 weeks as a hospitalera in the Dominico Laffe Municipal Albergue in El Burgo Ranero and I have been looking forward to returning as a pilgrim.

Today’s walk was mostly along tree lined paths that ran parallel to minor roads and Warrior Dave still managed an admirable 15K after his victory over the road.

The Dominico Laffe Albergue was constructed in 1921 of mud and straw in keeping with the majority of the housing in the town. It is a small 34 bed with sleeping quarters upstairs.

Some of the older buildings of the town.

As we settled down in bed the rain that has been threatening all evening made patterns on the window pane.