Our first contact with rain today. Well wet weather anyway as it was only a light drizzle but the clouds were telling a different story. With all of the beautiful weather that we had been having we had been lulled into a false sense of security and our wet weather gear had been delegated to the bottom of our backpacks. Now in the half morning light all our gear was stacked on the side of the path leading out of town as we retrieved our backpack covers and waterproof jackets. Thankfully two hours later the rain had cleared, but lesson learnt.

Indiana Dave took me exploring in the old part -a lot of it ruins- of Najera this afternoon. Set up against the incredible layered mountain backdrop it seemed other worldly.

We are doing a slow walk across Spain and averaging about 21 kilometers a day. So far we have walked over 200 kilometres and still have about 575 to go. According to Fitbit, last week we climbed the equivalent of 801 floors…it seemed a lot more to me.

Sleepy Dave left the Parochial Albergue this morning after a good breakfast but a bad nights sleep. Young Patrick overnight had according to Sleepy Dave become the Olympic Snoring campion. Even downstairs in the bathroom young Patrick could be heard. Me. I didn’t hear a thing. Guess my hearing-or lack of- has its advantages so I had had a good nights sleep.

It was 7:30 before we left this morning because of the wonderful hospitality supplied by hospeleras Pam, an Aussie from Sydney and Maria, a fun filled Spaniard.

On our way and passing through an underpass I was happy to see at the end a familiar mural. This huge mural was here four years ago and has aged well. So many things make me feel like I am coming home again.

We passed through Ermitage de la Trinidad de Cuevas near a tributary of the river Ebro. It was once the site of a pilgrim hospice run by the Trinitarian Order of nuns. The low meadows of this area during the 16th century were also notorious for gatherings of witches covens.

We have now entered the wine region of Rioja. Vineyards aplenty and now a gradual but long climb up the northern side of a Cantabrian Hill Cerro de Cantabrigians. This is near the Roman excavation site of the prehistoric city of Cantabria.

Logroño. One of the larger cities on the Camino and not easy to traverse. But the people here would have to be by far the friendliest and nicest peoples we have met. Passing locals would give us a friendly Buen Camino. Several times when locals saw us uncertain or studying a map they would point us in the right direction or explain, as in one case, that we had the map backwards. Oops.

We are spending the night in Navarrete, another historic town with many original period houses. The Church of the Assumption is the center piece of the town and its interior quite spectacular.

We finished the day with a home cooked meal and a bottle of Rioja…of course.

We left Los Arcos under a cloudless star filled sky. At 6.20 the morning air was very crisp and the ends of my fingers were tingling with cold. It was a very dark morning and we wouldn’t have gone anywhere without our head light. But it did look beautiful with the distant twinkling of town lights and the breaking dawn behind us.

We passed a cemetery with the prophetic inscription of

Yo que fui lo que tu eres, tu seras lo que yo soi

I once was what you are, you will be what I am

A couple of images from our walk today.

We arrived by lunchtime at Viana today. We are staying at the Parochial albergue of Inglesia de Santa Maria XIIIth century. In front of the church’s doorway is the tomb of Casare Borgia.

This pretty town is larger than many on the Camino with a population of 4000. It’s historical centre has little changed since medieval times.

Currently being restored is the 13th century Gothic church-fortress Church of San Pedro. It was seriously damaged in the first Carlist war. From here there are excellentviews over the Ebro valley.

For the past couple of days I have been unable to charge my camera batteries. Of the three I bought with me I was down to my last half battery. IT Dave was there for me. With a straight face he quietly told me that I had been putting the batteries in back to front.

We left Estella this morning just before dawn. The morning broke on heavy dark clouds reminiscent of yesterday but with a crisper morning air. The breeze was a little heavier but it made for good walking weather. I was looking forward to arriving at the Bodegas Irache winery with its on tap wine and water.

The landscape mellowed a bit today. The uphills weren’t quite as dramatic and arduous, but the scenery again, amazing. We walked along farm tracks through farmland, vineyards and groves of olive trees.

After leaving Cruce and in the middle of nowhere about 7 K from Los Arcos we came across a heavenly haven in Cafe Movil. A cafe con leche served with a muffin €1.50 and a chance to remove our shoes to cool our feet.

We checked into our accommodation and Poor Dave found a vending machine at the albergue. Four times Poor Dave put his €1 into the vending machine at the albergue trying to get a coke and all he kept getting was beer. He was persistent but eventually he had to admit defeat.

The Inglesia de Santa Maria de Los Arcos XIIth C is the center piece of Los Arcos. It is a workable mix of Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Classical elements.

And after sharing our Bodegas Irache wine with friends from the way the only other way to end a day in Spain was with Paella.

We left this morning over the 1000 year old Roman bridge Puente de Reina or Bridge of the Queen. The bridge spans the river Aga in the town of the same name.

After a long arduous climb out of Puente de Reina and 7 1/2 k’s later we were rewarded by Cirauqui, a well preserved Medieval town.

We walked today on a section of the best preserved Román Road on the Camino. It passed an ancient olive grove, some of the trees said to be 500 years old.

And a sign at the Roman road…

Is that all…

Masseuse Dave offered to use his massage skills to loosen up my tight calf muscles so I didn’t pass on that. I’m hoping now for a repeat performance.

Proud of Blister Dave today. After having his feet patched up he walked 23.8 K’s up to Alto Perdon and then down to Puente de Reina. -We left this morning down a golden Pamplona street. It was 6:30 and already there was a line of pilgrims to follow. Not that it was hard to traverse the streets out of town. All you had to do was follow the scallops imbedded in the sidewalk.

With a brilliant sunrise behind us we looked to the horizon and the wind turbines that we would be climbing to. It has been a very long hot summer this year. The sunflowers even though they have wilted have been given a golden glow as they face the early morning sun. Over their heads our destination of Alto de Perdon.

Half way to the Alto de Perdon and a stark reminder that not everyone has their dreams fulfilled. There are many monuments along the way to those that have started and never finished.

Still a long way to go, but getting closer.

Love you too.

Low on lung power and with tight calf muscles we arrived at Alto de Perdon. It has to be one of the most awesome sights on the Camino. On one of the silhouettes is engraved Donde se cruza El Camino del Viento Con el de las Estrellas. Where crosses the the path of the wind with that of the stars. The Alto gets its name from the Basilica and hospital which once stood here. The 13th century Basilica was dedicated to Nuestra Senora del Perdon (Our Lady of Forgiveness). It was later destroyed by Napoleon’s troops. This monument was built in 1996 on the site of the former Basilica and hospital.

The staff in David’s hand is a loaner. A pilgrim insisted that David pose with the staff for the photo to give him a more authentic look. It was the perfect prop.

Coming down the steep rock filled track from Alto de Perdon with my toes jammed into the ends of my boots I was hoping that I didn’t catch Blister Dave’s blisters.

Safely down the mountain at Uterga with another chance to refill our water bottles with cool fresh water.

At Obanos, this unusual monument.

The bridge at Puente la Reina silhouetted on the Arga River.

This is how to party.

We left Zubiri this morning in the last of the morning fog via the Puente de la Rabia or the Rabies Bridge. Legend has it that hearding animals around the main pillar three times would cure them of rabies. This came from the belief that a local saint, Santa Quiteria, was buried beneath the bridge.

A unique foot bridge that David couldn’t resist crossing even though he really didn’t have to.

At Zuriarn we crossed the Rio Arga and followed the Rio in the same direction but at a distance to once again cross the Rio Arga outside of Pamplona.

Just as not all bridges are the same not all fountains are alike but unless they state that they are not potable they usually have cool fresh water. This fountain ran into a trough, though I can only guess at what the water trough could have been used for.

We went casual today. Peregrino Dave felt like the real deal when he found a staff on the side of the road. By lunchtime we had changed into our teva’s (with socks) as Peregrino Dave had found a small toe on one of his blisters. We had a discussion about what the collective noun was for more than one blister. Some of the suggestions were a forum, a family and I suggested a pain of blisters.

A long purpose built set of steps that brought us up out of the valley. The steps didn’t make the climb any easier but then I didn’t experience the trail before the steps were constructed. Maybe if I had I would have been grateful for the steps.

So much is so beautiful along the Way.

By the time we finally reached Pamplona Peregrino Dave had realised why his staff had been left by the side of the road and he in turn left it for someone else. I also had a thought that at this rate the staff may very well make it to Santiago de Compostella. With the temperature hitting 30+ degrees Peregrino Dave had also ditched the bottom legs of his pants.

We arrived to Pamplona’s old city through parkland and to the imposing old Wall of Pamplona. We then followed the path around the corner to the left ,

to an entrance complete with drawbridge.

Pamplona has an incredible history. It began as a Roman city Pompaelo which was built on the site of the Basque village of Iruna in 74BC. From the 4th to the 8th century it was ruled by the Visigoths – Germanic people who displaced the Romans-. It was then under Muslim rule for around 50 years until Charlemagne lay siege to the city and placed it under the control of his allies.

The old city is beautiful and worth more than the afternoon that we had to explore it.

Before we had even left Roncesvalles Photographer Dave already had a queue of pilgrims waiting to be photographed and throughout our days walk he seemed to be the go to man.

The start of our walk was gentler today as we followed the Way along roadsides and along moss covered stone fences.

Three kilometres from Roncesvalles and the Camino skirted around Burguete. Burguete has an interesting history. Apparently there was a coven of witches in the nearby forest of Sorgintzaren and during the inquisition of the 16th century several of the witches were burnt at the stake. David told me that I had to be very careful here. It is also local legend that Ernst Hemingway stayed here at the Burguete hostel. In his novel ‘The Sun Also Rises’ the characters of Jake Barnes and Bill Gorton have a meal in the dining room of the hostel.

After Burguete we left the roadside behind as we headed inland towards Espinal.

Cows and farm gates reminded us that we were walking through farming land.

We stopped for a chat with a group having a morning break before we all moved on.

The scenery was constantly changing today. From open farmland to a forest of tall slender trees that had us walking over sun dappled paths,

and across makeshift bridges.

Though it was an easier walk today it still certainly had its moments with plenty of variety. It was a 21.9 k walk. About 5 hours walking 1 hour of photography

We had our photos taken today for a human interest story on how the Camino changes people. The researchers are going to meet us in Santiago de Compostela and take after photos. Note to self put on makeup before arriving in Santiago de Compostela.

Several minutes after leaving Orrison this morning the sun rose majestically over the mist covered mountains

A full sized statue of Mary and baby sits high on a rocky outcrop 50 metres from the trail.

Fenced grazing land soon gave away to open mountainside and small farming hamlets dotted the nearly barren mountains.

The tinkling of bells was the one constant today. Cow bells, horse bells and sheep bells. With a heavy band of cloud creating floating mountains the Pyrenees puts on a spectacular show.

We walked over a variety of trails today from small paved roads to tracks that were barely visible to well worn paths.

Approximately one kilometre before the Fontaine de Roland is a man with a van. He offers cold drinks and snacks and the last Camino stamp in France. A very welcome sight. At the fountaine we took the time to refill our water bottles and to have a break.

From just past the Fontaine de Roland the Camino runs along the Spanish side of the French Spanish border untill it reaches the Col de Bentarte.

After the equivalent of 215 sets of stairs we arrived at Col de Bentarte. After a good breather and an eye watering view we had a discussion with several other walkers. We had been told vehemently at the Pilgrims office not to take the 3 kilometres of steep rubble strewn track, but to take the sealed road. Four years ago there had been no such warnings and I had taken the track. Feeling invincible I decided to do it again and hope there had been no drastic change to its condition. About half way down Poor Dave’s legs felt like jelly but we made it without drama to Roncesvalles. And Poor Dave was rewarded with his first blister, albeit a small one.

The long building to the right dates from the 12 century and is a funeral chapel where masses were said for pilgrims who died at the monastery’s hospital.

Roncesvalles. A village with a huge old monastery several restaurants and a massive pilgrim albergue. It’s sole purpose it seems is to cater to pilgrims and tourists. It has a permanent population of less than 30.

This walk that we are beginning today as well as being a religious pilgrimage is also a UNESCO world heritage site.

Overnight Dozy Dave had morphed into Eager Beaver Dave and was awake at 4:30 and raring to go. We waited until daylight and as we walked under the gateway and onto the bridge over the river Nive the town bell struck 7:30.

The gentle walk out of town lulled us into a false sense that this first part of the walk wasn’t going to be too bad after all.

Along part of the Way there were also the white and red route markers that mark the French long distance walks. The marks lead walkers across the GR (Grande Randonnees) that Criss cross France. And after all, our walk begins in France. Here someone has added their own thoughts.

Though the walk was ‘challenging’ the views made it worthwhile and gave us an excuse to stop and give our lungs and legs a break.

Looking to the distance and the path still to travel.

Seven k’s mostly up and the mist that hung around all day gave the mountains an extra magic.

A gruelling 31/2 hours after leaving SJPdP we finally arrived. We had taken it slow and easy and arrived at Orrison where according to Fitbit we climbed 188 floors in 7 kilometres. Orrison a 16 year old purpose built Albergue. Only open from April 1 to October 20 due to bad weather and snow during the colder months.